About you, your 4x4 and access

General information about the various mods available to 4x4 vehicles covering pros and cons to assist in the decision of "Is this the right mod?"

They will let you down...


A timeless ritual for every 4-wheeler when leaving pavement is a brief stop to lower tire pressure for traction advantage and reduced tire spin. Over the years, many products have come along that promise to make it easier and quicker to achieve the desired tire air pressure.

The removal of valve stems (and frequent loss of said valve stem) gave way to hoses that could be clamped onto the valve and deflate two tires are once while keeping a balanced tire pressure.

Having tried all methods, I was a little skeptical when I tried the Staun Tyre Delators. Made in Australia, the deflators screw onto the valve stem and begin letting air out. And, they do know when to quit letting air out -- provided you adjust them.

The deflators are adjustable (from 6-30 psi).From the package, they are pre-set to 18 psi.Set up is easy and should be done prior to your first use.

Step one is to set one tire to your desired off-road tire pressure.The deflator has a knurled lock ring.Loosen that ring.Screw the deflator onto the valve stem and adjust the cap until the deflator pops open.Remove the deflator and tighten the knurled locking ring.

Continue reading
  14934 Hits

Speedometer Gear Adjustment for big tires on a Montero

Speedometer Gear Adjustment for big tires on a GenI Montero/Raider

Many of us who enjoy our GenI Montero/Raider offroad have switched to a larger tire size other than stock. A problem with this that you may or may not have noticed is that the larger diameter tire sizes throw the speedometer off. The disparity between actual traveled speed and displayed speed grows in proportion to the larger diameter of the tire.

I first noticed this a few years ago when an officer issued me a ticket for a speed that was 3mph over what I thought I was doing. Even though I knew I was speeding, the speed written on the ticket bothered me as being inaccurate. Fast forward 2.5yrs later to my next speeding ticket and I was in disbelief at the speed the officer said he had clocked me doing. This caused me to take action and look for a possible solution that has plagued most of us larger tire users for some time.

Actually, I made the discovery quite by accident as I was looking for reasons my speedometer needle was bouncing (different tech story). I pulled off the speedometer drive gear assembly to learn how it works. It’s really pretty simple: a nylon gear is turned by a screw on the output shaft.

Continue reading
  17193 Hits

Dual Transfer cases for your Gen2 Montero


Well, this whole crazy thing started when I started researching the similarities between the Jeep AW4 and the Mitsubishi V4AW3 transmissions. I kept my eyes open and found an NP231 from a 2001 Wrangler with a Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) already installed. I also found an AW4 tailhousing from an unknown year Cherokee.

My first steps were back in December when I tried mounting the AW4 tailhousing and np231 to the V4AW3. The tailhousing bolted up just fine and the splines ended up being the same size and count. This initial "test fit" did let me know that if I wanted this to work I would need a "short" input shaft for the NP231. Over the years NP231's have come with different input shafts varying in spline count and lenth. There are three lengths and two spline counts: 21 and 23 splines. The V4AW3 is a 23 spline tailshaft. I also used this opportunity to check the clearances with the floor, exhaust, crossmembers, and t-bars. I felt confident that the NP231 was a good fit and at the most would need minor clocking. After this wrenching session, I reinstalled the Active-trac t-case so I could continue driving the truck while I shopped around for more parts. I would recommend messing with the Active-trac t-case as little as possible! It is a heavy beast to bench press into place.

Since I first started dreaming of this mod, I knew that I wanted to make a dual transfer case setup. I felt that the dual case provided the following benefits:
1)Allowed for selectable ranges, ie:1:1, 2.72:1, & 7.4:1. With these options, even the middle speed is lower than the stock 1.90:1!
2)It was something I could piece together as time and money permitted.

I had three options to choose from in trying to create a dual NP231:
1)  Build the components myself. I didn't like this option simply because I knew it meant welding a mid-shaft together. I wasn't crazy out a welded shaft being in the heart of my drivetrain.
2)  A Mad Rooster Offroad crawlerbox
3)  Or a D.D.Machine "Box4rocks"

I decided on the D.D.Machine kit. I chose this kit because the guy that makes them seemed to really stand behind his product and know what he was doing. Also this kit had provisions for oil filling and draining. I was also less than thrilled with how the Mad Rooster guy handled himself when answering an email of mine.

I was lucky enough to find a Box4rocks 23 spline kit second-hand that had not yet been installed and came with all the parts that would be needed from a donor NP231 to make the doubler. I got even luckier when I found out that this doubler donor was a 23 spline short input shaft!
Here are some pics of the Box4rocks and doubler parts:
The doubler cut, welded, and guts assembled (you can see the midshaft poking out in the middle):

The plate that seals the rear of the doubler:

The clocking ring:

Once I had the doubler parts I wanted to start test fitting things to make sure everything would fit before I got too far into the project. I began by temporarily assembling the two cases. I soon found out that the assembly was almost too long and there was some interferance with the crossmember. Not only did I want the assembly to clear everything, but I knew that I would need some additional room for the drivetrain to "float" and enough clearance to reach the drain and fill plugs.

To clear the crossmember I did two things. The first was to remove this extra tab on the rear case housing:

It ended up looking like this:

Removing the tab helped the assembly to clear the crossmember, but it still didn't give me enough room to access the drain plug. My solution to this was to shorten the entire assembly 1/2" by removing the clocking ring. The clocking ring is a nice feature that is included in the kit, but unfortunately I could not afford the extra length that it caused. I experimented with various clocking positions and finally found one I was happy with. I settled on the final position because it was nicely tucked in above the t-bar without hitting the bottom of the floor.

To eliminate the clocking ring, I marked it's location and used the ring as a template to drill through the rear plate of the doubler case. Once these holes were drilled, I countersunk them so that bolt heads would clear the internals of the doubler case. The result looked like this:

I bolted the assembly together only to find out that once the clocking ring was removed that the rear case would no longer clear the bolt head that holds the rear part of the doubler shifter rail from floating around. I solved this problem by countersinking that bolt head as well:

Once that was completed, I assembled them again for another test fit and was happy with the results.

Continue reading
  19843 Hits

Mitsubusihi Tech from the 4x4Wire Archives

If you looking for information related to maintenance or modifications of Mitsubishi 4x4 vehicles, please check the 4x4Wire Mitsubishi Archives or TrailTalk Mitsubishi Forums.

  12320 Hits

OutdoorWire, 4x4Wire, JeepWire, TrailTalk, MUIRNet-News, and 4x4Voice are all trademarks and publications of OutdoorWire, Inc. and MUIRNet Consulting. Copyright (c) 1999-2020 OutdoorWire, Inc and MUIRNet Consulting - All Rights Reserved, no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without express written permission. You may link freely to this site, but no further use is allowed without the express written permission of the owner of this material. All corporate trademarks are the property of their respective owners.